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Home Ardbeg Distillery Visit
 |
TRIP TO ARDBEG
DISTILLERY
My thanks to Moet Hennessy UK for a
memorable trip to Islay this past week to visit one of my favourite
distilleries, Ardbeg. Our brand ambassador for the trip was Martin Grant who put
together a very convivial group consisting of myself, Richard Joynson from Loch
Fyne Whiskies, Stuart Barron of SR&E Barron in Dyce, Peter Wood from Luvians
in Cupar and Robin Russell of Robbies Dram in Ayrshire.
We could not have
been more fortunate with our (or rather MHUKs) choice of days to visit Islay as
the weather was superb. This was despite our pilots alarming claim whilst
taxi-ing in Glasgow that we might not be able to land on Islay due to mist.
Martin turned white as a sheet as he started ticking over in his mind exactly
what the hell he was going to do with us all in Glasgow for two days if that
were the case. Fortunately we were able to land and transfer to the Machrie
Hotel and Golf Course where we were staying and it was there we partook in the
first drams of the trip.
|
The
Machrie |
View from
Machrie |
No escaping
Peat! |
The Ardbeg
Committee |
A few of the
guys hold Ardbeg so close to their hearts that they couldnt wait to toast the
visit with a dram of Uigeadail and who can blame them? Its a wondrous Ardbeg
packed with peat as youd expect but with rich, dried fruit flavours reminiscent
of Christmas pudding. I wanted to ease myself in though so I started with a Port
Wood Finish Glenmorangie (my favourite of the wood finishes range and still in
the MHUK portfolio so no disrespect to my hosts). Its fantastically smooth
texture coupled with the chocolate and butterscotch nose works tremendously well
in my opinion. From here I went onto the 10 year old Ardbeg. A classic, ever
present in my private collection this whisky exhibits a smokier as opposed to
peatier nose with medicinal, salty and seaweedy nuances thrown into the balance.
Now was the time that I felt ready to order the Uigeadail. Meaning dark and
mysterious place this whisky takes your taste buds prisoner so much so that you
would find it difficult to move onto another whisky and not say I still taste
Uigeadail! Not that that bothered me as I was now settled in and sticking to the
Oogy for the remainder of the evening.
On day
two of our visit we woke to find the mist from the previous day had blown far
from Islay and we were now basking in sunshine. Unfortunately I had packed heavy
clothes with which to brave the elements and survive a boat excursion I knew was
on the cards that afternoon! I guess the whisky gods knew the level of trade we
five did between us and decided to spoil us on this trip, someone remind me to
toast my next dram to them!
|
Ardbeg's Old Still |
Our group is welcomed
by Jackie |
Jackie Thomson led us
through the
process |
Tools of the Trade |
As we head out with Ardbeg our
destination its not long before I catch glimpse of the Port Ellen maltings out
the car window. Such a sad loss to the island and to malt whisky drinkers the
world over was that distilleries closure in 1983 but at least the building has
still got one foot in the industry and provides malted barley to the local
distilleries today.
Before you know it were passing Laphroaig, and barely
have you had the time to say Theres Laphroaig and youre at Lagavulin! Such is
the closeness of these marvellous buildings you immediately get an appreciation
of the role geography plays in developing robust, peaty, salty, briny whiskies
that are so rarely replicated off this shore. Enough said, we have arrived at
Ardbeg.
First thing that catches my eye on entering is the old Still that
sits in the courtyard. Later during my visit I discovered that whilst most
stills have a life span of 15-20 years this one had been developing the Ardbeg
spirit for FIFTY years. I would like to think this was due to the fighting
spirit of Ardbeg refusing to give up but sadly it transpired it was simply
under-utilized for far too long. Thus explaining why vintage Ardbegs arent ten a
penny these days.
Our tour guide around the distillery is Jackie Thomson,
wife of Stuart Thomson who became Ardbegs distillery manager in 1997. It was
mainly through the drive and passion of these two people (and the purse of then
new owners Glenmorangie PLC) that Ardbeg turned a corner. Nearly 1.5 million was
spent on new heating tanks, washbacks in Oregon pine and a new still. Jackie
commented quite sincerely that she felt privileged to have seen such
developments take place under their tenure and spoke of the roll your sleeves up
approach to getting everything installed in such a short
timeframe.
|
Entering the Old Malt Barn |
The malt enters through a
conveyer
belt |
The Malt Bin and Mill |
Grist Elevator |
The result of their graft?
Production up from 250,000 litres a year to 1,000,000! Jobs returning to Islay
and a new life blood for the community. The opening of the superb Old Kiln Caf
which attracts customers from across Islay with its quality food at affordable
prices. But most importantly, quality Ardbeg whisky once more being produced and
even at 8 years standing on its own two feet tall and proud.
Our visit
was quite fortunately timed again in that we were present as malted barley was
being delivered and sped along the conveyor belt to the mill. The mill is one
piece of equipment at Ardbeg that did not need updating. This brute of a machine
has been going for decades with no sign of giving up the ghost yet. Its only
evident recent overhaul being that it now proudly displays the green synonymous
with Ardbeg. Not the last example we see of brand consistency throughout the
building (But is it brand awareness or did they just get a bulk deal on that
green paint from the supplier? Im leaning towards the
former)
|
Mash tuns at work |
Mash Tun |
Wash backs |
Drawing a sample to taste |
The washbacks (six of them in
total, 3 of them new since 1997) house the fermentation process. Often have I
visited distilleries and been told of the beer like substance procured at this
stage but only Jackie was prepared to offer a sample for professionals *cough*
like us to ponder over. Immensely malty and with a burst of peat smoke (or is
that last nights Oogy still battling my tastebuds?) Jim McEwan of Bruichladdich
once told me that this was a hangover cure second to none but I couldnt comment
on that as the Glenmorangies and Ardbegs from the previous night left no such
unpleasant experience as to warrant a cure today.
|
Ardbeg's Famous Stills |
Spirit Still |
Wash Still |
Spirit Safe |
| The majestic stills are a sight to
behold. The Wash Still with a capacity of 18270 litres and the Spirit still with
a capacity of 16957 litres work in conjuction with a purifier to develop the
spirit that we know and love. Its strange but as I walk through this room there
are waves of aromas that hit and then are gone. In one step I pick up some peat,
in another I sense Havana cigars, in another theres a maltiness in the air. We
need to get this spirit in cask to marry all these flavours together into the
balance that makes Ardbeg so endearing the world over. |
The process explained |
New Casks Delivered |
Heaven Hill Bourbon
Whiskey Casks |
Awaiting the Nectar |
Filling Room |
Peter samples the
new make |
The Warehouse |
Removing the Bung |
As we make our way to the filling
station we take in the view of hundreds of casks newly delivered from Heaven
Hill Bourbon Whiskey Distillery waiting to take ownership of the spirit that it
will house for 10 years, or 12, or 15 who knows? Jackie disappears for a moment
with Richard who has apparently coaxed her into drawing a sample of the new make
spirit we were unable to explore back at the spirit safe (it had been locked
behind glass and we had to watch as the spirit poured endlessly through the
system). Not yet whisky as this spirit has not been in cask for 3 years, it in
fact has never seen the inside of a cask. Surprisingly palatable for a new make
which we had to try neat as there was no water at hand with which to cut it.
There is a liquorice quality coming through at first then a whiff of peat but
its the smokiness that lingers and stays with you on the trek to the warehouse
our next stop.
An Ardbeg lovers dream lay before me. Countless casks,
patiently maturing, just waiting for the call to arms when they will join their
brothers in a future bottling. Again someone knew we were coming - a glass is
waiting by 4 casks at the entrance. Jackie removes the bung from a couple and
hands me the valinch to draw some whisky (for these have been here since 1999
and 2000 so the contents have moved from being called spirit). For those not in
the know of how you draw a whisky sample from a cask imagine putting a straw in
a glass of water, press your finger over the top of the straw and lift it from
the liquid. When you let go the liquid flows, just as the whisky from the first
of the 1999 casks was doing now into our glass. This time around the whisky is
sweeter, more vanilla tones come from this bourbon cask but with a smoky
backbone that tells you its heritage. |
Removing a Sample |
Richard spots a
Kildalton cask |
Our tasting samples |
The 1965 |
As if we havent had a privileged
enough day Jackie lets us loose saying any casks youd like to try?. Richard
sniffs out a 2003 Kildalton, the lightly peated Ardbeg. Within a blink of an eye
hes on top of the casks and drawing us a small sample. A fruitier more floral
experience than any Ardbeg Ive had this trip but then this is not Ardbeg is it?
And yet when the taster is gone theres a hint of smoke creeps back. You just
cant escape it and why would you want to here?
Our tour now at an end and
we have truly been made to feel like part of the extended Ardbeg family. And yet
if you have ever lifted a glass of Ardbeg to your lips you too would be
considered as much a part of the distillery as we did that day and would be
welcomed as warmly Im sure. |
Bill Lumsden talks us
through the
whisky |
Kildalton Church |
Kildaltons History |
Kildalton Cross |
Now its back to the Old Kiln Caf
for lunch before our boat trip. But wait, Dr Bill Lumsden master distiller of
the Glenmorangie trio (Ardbeg, Glenmorangie and Glen Moray) had popped to the
distillery to inspect the equipment and has found time to take us through a
tutored tasting! How could we refuse?
Our offerings included some New
Make Spirit, the 10 year old, the Uigeadail and the new Airigh Nam Biest
pronounced Arr-ie-nam-bee-ash-te. This 1990 distillation is gloriously smooth
and soft. Traces of pine nuts come through between the now more subdued peat and
smoky blanket that usually throws itself around the younger expressions. A final
treat at our tasting is the 1965, limited to 261 bottles worldwide and selling
for in excess of 2,000 but two 1.5cl bottles remain and are carefully split
between the group. A real treat to try Ardbeg at this age, and it will be a long
time before a 39 year old whisky is available from this distillery again as the
next oldest casks in the warehouse are from 1974. There is an initial saltiness
followed closely by rich dried raisins. Also present are vanilla, peat and
espresso coffee. The whisky seems to evaporate on your tongue slightly allowing
you to breathe in further hints of brambles, fruitcake and tobacco smoke before
the long peat smoke finish takes hold. A rare treat and we thank you Bill and
MHUK for letting us try it.
Sadly, our time is nearly over at Ardbeg. We
enjoy lunch at the Old Kiln Caf (once youve been youll realise why people come
from across Islay for this wonderful food) before heading off to the nearby
Kildalton Cross. A trip arranged by our hosts as a last minute replacement for
our boat trip as our boat is apparently stuck down the coast. Set amid nothing
but the beautiful landscape of Islay the church we visit, though ruined, is a
restful place. We stand for 30 minutes atop a hill taking it all in, the view,
the smells, the peace and tranquillity and now we head back to the
airport.
No danger of our flight being cancelled as the day has been
bright and mist free. A pity really, I can think of worse places to be stranded
for a night than Islay! Its a short flight at just 25 minutes and as quickly as
that our trip is at an end. We say our farewells as Martin divides up some peat
and malted barley that Jackie gave him back at the distillery so that we all
leave with a piece of Ardbeg we did not expect.
I had a great time with
the lads brought together by Martin and feel sure that well stay in touch or
perhaps meet again someday on that wonderful island of Islay |
|
Robert Graham Ltd Est
1874
10-14
West Nile Street, Glasgow ,G1 2PP Phone: +44 (0)141 248 7283
194a Rose
Street, Edinburgh, EH2 4AZ - Phone: +44 (0) 131 226 1874
254 Canongate,
Edinburgh, EH8 8AA Phone: +44(0) 131 556 2791
4, Broadwell Parade, London, NW6 3BQ - Phone +44 (0) 207 624 3351
'Quality, Service and Value......
Guaranteed'' | |
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